針織工程手冊，宗平生、許期頤，PDF

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針織工程手冊，宗平生、許期頤，PDF。22M。

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內容提要

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本分冊是《針織工程手冊》中的經編分冊。

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本分冊介紹了經編生產中所需要的各種設備、工藝數據、計算公式，其中包括經編組織，經編產品品種，經編針織物的結構參數及產品設計;國產及引進的各類整經機、經編機(高速、多梳、賈卡、雙針床經編機及鉤編機、縫編機和管編機)和附屬設備的主要特征、主要機件的規格及織物疵點的產生原因和消除方法等內容。同時對經編生產消耗定額及主要技術經濟指標也作了介紹。

本書可供針織工業的工程技術人員，大、中專院校師生，企業管理干部和工人查閱參考。

編者的話


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經編工程是紡織和針織工程中的重要領域，經編織物在服用、裝飾織物方面有廣泛應用，近年來，在產業用布，特別是高科技、高強輕質復合材料方面開始有相當應用，為世所矚目。本書內容已包括了能收集到的材料，盡可能以數據、表格形式出現，以方便廣大經編工程技術人員和設計人員查閱，供各方面參考，希望能成為經編行業的有效工具書。

本分冊:主編:宗平生許期頤
主審:馮勛偉
編寫分工如下:第一章由宗平生編寫，第二章由金玉燕編寫，第三章由華任、盛慧萍編寫，第四章由畢亞新、倪志平編寫，第五章由倪志平、周孝文、蔣高明、宗平生、周保仁編寫，第六章由徐金林、吳國榮編寫，第七章由孫鎮發、王道興、許期頤、許萬舉編寫，第八章由吳國榮、陳嚴、邱紅娟、尹季盛編寫，第九章由楊玉豐、陳東林、杜剛偉、蔡建英編寫，第十章由胡美漩、蔣高明編寫，第十一章由王道興、周孝文編寫，第十二章由許期頤編寫。
由于編者的水平有限，缺點、錯誤在所難免，懇請讀者批評指正。

《針織工程手冊·經編分冊》編寫組

1995年5月

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目錄

第一章 總述........................................................... (1)

第一節經編機的分類及代號·................................... (1)

一、經編機的分類⋯································⋯⋯ (1)

二、經編機的代號··········································⋯⋯ (1)

(一)國產經編機的代號··········.··············⋯⋯ (3)

(二)卡爾·邁鄧(KarlMayer)公司經編機的代號··························( 3)

(三)利巴(LIBA)公司經編機的代號“·······⋯⋯ (5)

(四)特克斯梯瑪(Textima)公司經編機的代號⋯ (6)

第二節經編機的機號和使用原料·............................. (7)

一、經編機的機號··········································⋯⋯ (7)

二、經編機可加工紗線的最大線密度···············.·⋯⋯ (8)

三、經編原料·······································?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (8)

第三節經編針織物組織·......................................... (9)

一、經編針織物組織的表示方法························⋯⋯ (9)

(一)圖示法·············································⋯⋯ (9)

(二)數碼法······················月···················⋯⋯ (1)0

二、經編針織物的基本組織···························⋯⋯ (10)

(一)單針床墓本組織······························⋯⋯ (10)

(二)雙針床基本組織····························⋯ ⋯ (11)

三、經編針織物的變化組織···························⋯⋯ (13)

(一)經絨組織·····································.·⋯⋯ (13)

(二)經料組織····························一?！??！ぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (13)

(三)變化經編組織····”···························⋯⋯ (13)

(四)變化重經組織·································⋯⋯ (13)

四、經編針織物的花色組織···························⋯⋯ (14)

(一)二~四梳經編組織⋯?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (14)

(二)空穿經編組織·································⋯⋯ (15)

(三)缺墊經編組織·································⋯⋯ (18)

(四)襯緯經編組織······························“·⋯⋯ (20)

(五)壓紗經編組織·································⋯⋯ (24)

(六)缺壓經編組織·····?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (25)

(七)多梳經編組織································⋯⋯ (28)

(八)賈卡提花經編組織···················.······⋯⋯ (28)

(九)雙針床花色經編組織························⋯⋯ (30)

(十)毛圈經編組織·····························?！ぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (34)

(十一)不均勻經編組織···························⋯⋯ (36)

第二章經編產品·····································.·····⋯⋯ (37)

第一節服 用經編產品·······························?！ぁ啊ぁひ?font face="Calibri">(37)

一、外衣類··············?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ??！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (37)

(一)網眼花紋布····································⋯⋯ (37)

(二)帶枝方格色織布·························，······。⋯ (37)

(三)滌綸褶裥布····················~·············⋯⋯ (38)

(四)錦、滌交織小方格起絨布···············.·⋯⋯ (39)

(五)經編毛圈布····································⋯⋯ (40)

二、襯衫類·····················~························⋯⋯ (41)

(一)錦、滌交織布·······················.········⋯⋯ (41)

(二)滌綸小網眼布···⋯⋯，·⋯⋯”·············⋯⋯ (41)

(三)薄型網眼襯衫布··············，···············⋯⋯ (42)

(四)橫條紋半網眼襯衫布···，·················.⋯⋯ (43)

三、內衣類·····?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (43)

(一)婦女內衣料之一······················⋯⋯ (43)

(二)婦女內衣料之二·····························⋯⋯ (44)

(三)便服、睡衣料·······················⋯⋯ (44)

四、運動衣類·...................... .... ......... ... . (45)

(一)氨綸有光平布·································⋯⋯ (45)

(二)閃光拉毛布····································⋯⋯ (45)

(三)雙面布·····································⋯⋯ (46)

五、其它························⋯ ⋯”·········⋯⋯ (46)

(一)六角網眼長筒女襪·········⋯⋯’，·········⋯⋯ (46)

(二)彩條童襪····························.·······⋯⋯ (48)

(三)提花連褲襪、提花長筒襪、提花手套···⋯⋯ (49)

(四)鞋面料··········································⋯⋯ (49)

(五)遮陽帽布·······································⋯⋯ (50)

(六)頭巾布····························⋯·⋯⋯ (51)

第二節裝飾用經編產品···················⋯⋯·····(51)

一、簾帷類·······························⋯‘·········⋯⋯ (51)

(一)刷花絨窗簾布·······························⋯⋯ (51)

(二)大提花窗簾布·································⋯⋯ (52)

二、床上用品類··········································⋯⋯ (53)

(一)素色紋帳·································⋯⋯ (53)

(二)提花紋帳·⋯⋯，·······················，······⋯⋯ (53)

(三)提花床革····································⋯⋯ (54)

(四)拉舍爾毛毯···········.·······⋯⋯ (54)

三、家具面料類···························-···········⋯⋯ (5)5

(一)雙針床經編絨類織物之一··············⋯⋯ (55)

(二)雙針床經編絨類織抽之二··················⋯⋯ (57)

(三)拉絨織物···············“·········⋯⋯”’，··⋯⋯ (57)

四、地毯類⋯”······?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?，·········⋯⋯ (58)

(一)素色絨面地毯·································⋯⋯ (58)

(二)花色絨面地毯············，···?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (59)

(三)素色珠面地毯·································⋯⋯ (60)

五、花邊類························?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (61)

(一)彈性月牙邊帶·......................................(61)

(二)服飾花邊······················⋯⋯‘··········⋯⋯ (61)

第三節產業用經編產品·...................................... (64)

一、產業用網類·............................................... (64)

(一)六梳養殖網(漁網)························⋯⋯ (64)

(二)八梳圓網(漁網)····················⋯⋯”··⋯ (65)

(三)衛生用網·····?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (66)

(四)水果包裝袋···········?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?，········⋯⋯ (67)

二、醫療用品類?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ??！ぁぁ?，·······⋯⋯ (68)

(一)頭發移植用織物····················.········⋯⋯ (68)

(二)外科用修補材料································一(68)

三、骨架材料類···········?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?，······，···········，⋯⋯ (69)

(一)涂層材料底布·····························，···⋯⋯ (69)

(二)航空、船泊等構件材料·····················⋯⋯ (69)

四、其它·······································。⋯ (70)

(一)工業用傳送帶·································⋯⋯ (70)

(二)工業用過濾布·································⋯⋯ (71)

(三)涂層遮篷布························?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (72)

第三章 經編工藝設計·...............................:............ (73)

第一節經編針織物的結構參數·............................. (73)

一、送經比·····，········································⋯⋯ (73)

二、線圈長度·······································⋯⋯ (75)

第二節原料、紗線線密度和機號的選用····.............. (77)

第三節經編織物規格·......................................... (79)

一、平方米克重.·································⋯⋯ (79)

二、密度··········································(79)

三、織物幅寬·············································⋯⋯ (81)

四、整經根數······················?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (81)

五、用紗比·········································⋯⋯ (82)

六、坯布匹重和匹長····································⋯⋯ (84)

七、整經長度············································⋯⋯ (85)

第四節上機和工藝設計表·................................... (85)

一、上機············································(85)

(一)整經機的工藝上機···························⋯⋯ (85)

(二)經編機的工藝上機···························⋯⋯ (90)

二、工藝設計表··········································⋯⋯ (90)

第五節工藝設計舉例·......................................... (93)

例一·······································⋯⋯‘···········⋯⋯ (93)

(一)工藝設計及計算······························⋯⋯ (93)

(二)上機·············································⋯⋯ (94)

例二··············································(95)

(一)工藝設計及計茸······························⋯⋯ (95)

(二)上機···················.························⋯⋯ (97)

例三······································· (98)

(一)工藝設計及計算······························⋯⋯ (98)

(二)上機···················.·····················⋯⋯、二(99)

第四章整經機········································· (101)

第一節整經要求和紗線前處理························⋯⋯ (101)

一、經紗整經張力····································· (101)

二、整經紗線油劑······································ (104)

三、經編紗線前處理方法·····························⋯⋯ (105)

四、整經要求·········································· (105)

第二節分段整經機............................................ (106)

一、GE201型整經機·································⋯⋯ (106)

二、DSC型整經機····································⋯⋯ (113)

三、23型整經機·······································⋯⋯ (117)

四、4142型整經機····································⋯⋯ (119)

五、HDSM型花經軸整經機························⋯⋯ (123)

六、彈性紗線整經機····································⋯⋯ (125)

七、牽伸整經機··········?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (126)

八、整經疵點產生原因和消除方法··················⋯⋯ (130)

第三節經軸··············································⋯⋯ (132)

一、經軸規格·············································”·⋯ (132)

二、經軸上紗線的長度和重量························⋯⋯ (133)

第五章高速經編機··········································⋯⋯ (136)

第一節普通槽針型·............................................ (136)

一、KS系列經編機····································⋯⋯ (136)

二、COPCENTRA系列經編機·‘···················⋯⋯ (161)

三、KOKETT U系列經編機·······················⋯⋯ (174)

四、GE271型經編機·································⋯⋯ (194)

五、Z304型經編機····································⋯⋯ (195)

第二節普通鉤針型- Z303C型、Z303B-3型經編機·····················(2 00 )

第三節毛圈型經編機·......................................... (210)

一、KS4FBZ型毛圈經編機···························⋯⋯ (210)

二、COPCENTRA-POL型毛圈經編機·········⋯⋯ (213)

三、GE273M型毛圈經編機·······················⋯⋯ (214)

四、COP 3 HS POL型利緯毛圈經編機············⋯⋯ (215)

第四節電腦毛圈經編機·...................................... (216)

第五節電腦提花經編機·.............‘........................ (235)

第六節其它專用高速經編機·................................ (242)

一、彈性織物高速經編機······························⋯⋯ (242)

二、全幅襯緯高速經編機·····························，·，，⋯ (242)

三、SWAN WARP型經編機··············，·········⋯⋯ (244)

四、帶花壓板的鉤針型高速經編機··················⋯⋯ (245)

五、雙針床鉤針型高速經編機(SIMPLEX型) ⋯⋯ (246)

第七節高速經編機織物疵點產生原因和消除方法⋯""" (248)

一、漏針··············.···································⋯⋯ (248)

二、吊針(集圈)·······································⋯⋯ (248)

三、斷紗····················································。⋯ (249)

四、橫條·················································⋯⋯ (250)

五、縱向條紋·············································⋯⋯ (250)

六、壞針........................................................ (250)

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第六章 多梳型拉舍爾經編機·...................................(252)

第一節多梳型拉舍爾經編機的工作原理和地組織⋯""" (252)

第二節多梳型拉舍爾經編機的花型設汁及上機·........ (254)

第三節普通多梳型拉舍爾經編機·.......................... (258)

一、漁網型多梳拉舍爾經編機?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (258)

(一)Z508F型無結漁網機························⋯⋯ (258)

(二)SGE238型經編無結織1J機···············⋯⋯ (260)

(三)RF8, RSF8型拉舍爾經編機············⋯⋯ (261)

(四)G508F, G509F型拉舍爾經編機·········⋯⋯ (262)

二、通用型拉舍爾經編機··················，···········⋯⋯ (263)

(一)GE231-75 X 9型拉舍爾經編機’，··.⋯ ⋯，二(263)

(二)G506, G513-G517型拉舍爾經編機···⋯⋯ (266)

三、高速型拉舍爾經編機·”··，····················⋯⋯，⋯ (269)

(一)RS來列拉舍爾經編機·..........................(269)

(二)RACOP 0型系列拉舍爾經編機·········⋯⋯ (272)

(三)RACOP TP系列拉舍爾經編機·········⋯⋯ (275)

第四節花邊和窗簾用多梳型拉舍爾經編機·.............. (277)

一、MRS30, MRS42型拉舍爾經編機············⋯⋯ (277)

二、MRSS32型拉舍爾經編機························⋯⋯ (281)

第五節壓紗板多梳型MRGSF 31/16型拉舍爾經編機······················ (2 89 )

第六節全幅襯緯型拉舍爾經編機·.......................... (295)

一、RS4MSU, RS4-10MSW-Nu型經編機···⋯⋯ (295)

二、多軸向襯緯型經編機······························⋯⋯ (297)

三、經緯紗并纖維網襯入型經編機··················⋯⋯ (300)

第七節多梳型經編機的潤滑條件及疵點消除·........... (303)

一、潤滑條件·············································⋯⋯ (303)

二、織物疵點產生原因和消除方法··············⋯⋯:⋯ (303)

第七章 賈卡型拉舍爾經編機······························⋯⋯ (305)

第一節賈卡型拉舍爾經編機的工作原理和地組織⋯""" (305)

一、賈卡型拉舍爾經編機的工作原理.············⋯⋯ (305)

二、賈卡型拉舍爾經編機的地組織··················⋯⋯ (310)

第二節賈卡裝置............................................... (314)

一、賈卡裝置的技術特征······························⋯⋯ (314)

二、賈卡裝置的調整····································⋯⋯ (315)

第三節賈卡型拉舍爾經編機的花型設計與上機........ (321)

一、花型設計·························⋯⋯·········⋯⋯ (321)

二、花型與上機·····································⋯⋯ (335)

第四節賈卡型拉舍爾經編機紋板的制備·................. (341)

一、紋板的種類··········································⋯⋯ (341)

二、紋板的軋制············.····························⋯⋯ (344)

三、紋板軋孔設備·······································⋯⋯ (350)

第五節普通型賈卡拉舍爾經編機·.......................... (354)

一、GE246-4/1, 4/2型賈卡拉舍爾經編機···⋯⋯ (354)

二、ETJ4/1, ESTJ4/1-7/14型賈卡拉舍爾經編機····························(358 )

三、RJ4/1型賈卡拉舍爾經編機·····················⋯⋯ (361)

第六節毛圈型賈卡拉舍爾經編機·.......................... (363)

第七節壓紗板型賈卡提花經編機·.......................... (374)

一、ZJG-5F型賈卡提花經編機··················⋯⋯ (374)

二、RJG5F-NE型賈卡提花經編機···········?！ぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (375)

三、GE241'Y-5/1型賈卡提花經編機············⋯⋯ (378)

四、RJG5/2F-NE型賈卡提花經編機············⋯⋯ (380)

第八節MRSSJ 78/1 SU型多梳型經編機·········⋯⋯ (382)

第九節賈 卡型拉舍爾經編機織物疵點的產生原因和消除方法··············(384 )

第八章 雙針床型拉舍爾經編機·······················(392)

第一節雙針床型拉舍爾經編機的工作原理·.............. (392)

第二節普通型雙針床拉舍爾經編機...................... (394)

一、GE282型雙針床經編機·····⋯⋯···········⋯⋯ (394)

二、DR8E型雙針床經編機···························⋯⋯ (395)

第三節短絨型雙針床拉舍爾經編機··················⋯⋯ (401)

一、RD6DPLM與RD7DPLM EBC型雙針床經編機················(4 01 )

二、DG506DPLM型雙針床經編機··················⋯⋯ (410)

三、GE286型雙針床經編機························⋯⋯ (414)

四、潤滑條件········································· (417)

第四節長絨型雙針床拉舍爾經編機·....................... (417)

一、HDR6DPLM/60型雙針床經編機············⋯⋯ (417)

二、GE283型雙針床經編機························⋯⋯ (451)

第五節毛圈型雙針床拉舍爾經編機·....................... (453)

一、HDR5PLS型雙針床經編機·······················⋯ (453)

二、HDRJ5/2PLM 型雙針床經編機···············⋯⋯ (454)

第六節包裝袋型雙針床拉舍爾經編機·.................... (456)

第七節圓筒織物型雙針床拉舍爾經編機·................. (458)

一、三角褲機········································ (458)

二、HDRJ6/2-NE-EEW-ST型雙針床經編機⋯ (459)

第八節 雙針床型拉舍爾經編機織物疵點產生原因和消除方法············· ( 469)

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第九章 鉤編機和管編機·.........................................(472)

第一節偏鉤針型鉤編機·.........··。. ... ...................... (472)

一、GE711-360 X 3型電腦提花鉤編機·········⋯⋯ (472)

二、COMEZ806/800型鉤編機·····················⋯⋯ (475)

三、COMEZ MPR/3100型鉤編機··················⋯⋯ (476)

第二節舌 針型鉤編機·.........................................(477)

一、M138/1200型舌針鉤編機···············”····⋯⋯ (477)

二、Decotex 138/244型舌針鉤編機···············⋯⋯ (483)

三、Decotex JME型舌針鉤編機·····················⋯⋯ (487)

四、GE701-800 X 6型鉤編機························⋯⋯ (493)

五、COMEZ MJB/3C型提花鉤編機···············⋯⋯ (496)

第三節管編機·.................................................. (497)

第四節鉤編機織物疵點產生原因與消除方法·........... (501)

第十章 縫編機·······················(503)

第一節縫編機分類及縫編組織............................. (503)

一、縫編機分類····································?！ぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (503)

二、縫編組織·············································⋯⋯ (503)

第二節纖網型縫編機·......................................... (508)

一、馬利瓦特(Maliwatt)型縫編機···············⋯⋯ (508)

二、馬利伏里斯(Malivlies)型縫編機············⋯⋯ (512)

第三節底布型縫編機·......................................... (514)

一、Z331型縫編機····································⋯⋯ (514)

二、馬利波爾(Malipol)型縫編機···············⋯⋯ (520)

三、伏爾特克斯(Voltex)型縫編機···············⋯⋯ (523)

第四節紗線型縫編機·......................................... (525)

一、馬利莫(Malimo)型縫編機··················⋯⋯ (525)

二、舒斯波爾(Schusspol)型、縫編機···············⋯⋯ (540)

三、利洛波爾(Li-opol)型毛圈縫編機············⋯⋯ (542)

第五節縫編織物疵點產生原因及消除方法·.............. (549)

第十一章經編生產輔助設備······························⋯⋯ (552)

第一節工藝用輔助設備·...................................... (552)

一、線圈長度測定儀···································⋯⋯ (552)

二、經紗張力儀··········································⋯⋯ (553)

三、硬度儀··········⋯⋯’，·····························⋯⋯ (553)

第二節維修用輔助設備·...................................... (554)

一、針塊制造用設備····································⋯⋯ (554)

二、鑄針專用設備·····································，·⋯⋯ (555)

三、鏈塊倒角機···········································‘·⋯ (556)

第三節運轉用輔助設備·············‘·················一⋯""" (558)

第十二章 經編生產條件和技術經濟指標···············⋯⋯ (560)

第一節經編廠房要求“........................................ (560)

一、廠房地質條件·······································⋯⋯ (560)

二、對廠房的基本要求·································⋯⋯ (560)

(一)廠房高度的選用··········.·············⋯⋯”⋯ (560)

(二)柱網間距······································⋯⋯ (560)

(三)廠房的地面······················‘一··········⋯⋯ (561)

(A)廠房結構·······································⋯⋯ (561)

(五)門窗·····?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (561)

(六)廠房墻壁······································⋯⋯ (561)

第二節經編設備的配套和排列·............................. (561)

一、經編設備的配套····································⋯⋯ (561)

二、機器排列·············································⋯⋯ (562)

(一)機器的基礎尺寸······························⋯⋯ (563)

(二)排列基準尺寸·································⋯⋯ (578)

第三節經 編車間的生產條件·................................(579)

一、經編車間的溫濕度·...................................... (579)

二、經編車間的照明····································⋯⋯ (580)

第四節經編產品產量·......................................... (580)

一、理論產量····················⋯⋯’，·················⋯⋯ (580)

(一)整經機的理論產童···························⋯⋯ (580)

(二)經編機的理論產量···························⋯⋯ (580)

二、生產效率·······································?！ぁぁぁぁ?amp;#8943;⋯ (582)

三、實際產量·············································⋯⋯ (583)

四、設備運轉率?！ぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁぁ?，······················一(583)

五、設備利用率···································，······⋯⋯ (584)

六、總產量·····················‘··························⋯⋯ (584)

七、經編機臺數的確定·································⋯⋯ (584)

第五節經編生產消耗定額.................................... (584)

一、回絲率················································⋯⋯ (584)

二、機針消耗·············································⋯⋯ (585)

(一)經編機機針消耗····························⋯⋯‘·(585)

(二)整經機分紗針的消耗··························一(586)

第六節經編生產勞動定額.................................... (586)

第七節經編生產成本核算······························⋯⋯ (590)

一、經編產品成本的分類和內容·····················⋯⋯ (590)

二、產品成本計算·······································⋯⋯ (591)

2 {+ d* d# R7 d" |0 x" u針織工程手冊（人造毛皮分冊），PDF。23M。
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目錄

第一章 總述 19
第一節 人造毛皮商品技術規格及其用途 19
第二節 人造毛皮生產方法及其生產工藝流程 20
: m$ t2 l/ e* S+ k3 \$ S3 n3 Q  一、緯編法生產工藝流程 20
   (一)毛條喂入法 20
) h+ p1 g/ j, j! z) h( n   (二)毛紗割圈法 23
  二、經編法生產工藝流程 23
+ B* O! ]: j; x9 R% D! X  三、縫編法生產工藝流程 24
6 ?$ {9 i, i0 K+ t6 i第二章 主要原料、材料 25
第一節 纖維 25
  一、纖維分類 25
" x: R7 H! T  @/ Z9 b  二、各種纖維的主要技術特征與特點 26
! D! z  d9 R3 V# t2 t# m   (一)天然纖維 26
. G8 }  @' m2 ^1 [: y( k$ h   (二)再生纖維素纖維 28
  H. W9 X+ N& b; G) W   (三)合成纖維 30
& ]& O' @/ q$ X. u" T   (四)特種纖維 37
9 C1 w8 D& Z( Z9 w, H) \  三、幾種常用纖維的主要技術性能 40
/ m% Z2 L+ N0 K; ^. G  n9 a" Q% r   (一)腈綸(聚丙烯腈纖維) 40
9 V) D, J5 o9 y  Y% O2 x6 B# j   (二)改性腈綸(丙烯腈/氯乙烯共聚物纖維) 42
, D/ G$ y! _# I7 D( Z+ g   (三)滌綸(聚酯纖維) 49
2 u% d) j  M9 j& `& ^% ?; H- L   (四)丙綸(聚丙烯纖維) 51
第二節 底紗與毛紗規格及其回潮率 52
第三節 涂層粘合劑與增稠劑 53
; O1 j* y5 l% k1 t. W  一、粘合劑的選用 53
  二、粘合劑的分類 54
  三、幾種常用粘合劑的主要特性 54
   (一)合成樹脂 54
   (二)橡膠類粘合劑 55
- E, ~, x/ f2 b2 Y9 }6 I" @8 x5 h   (三)增稠劑 56
$ u* `& ?) ]* u2 ~; d9 j第三章 織物與毛絨基本組織 57
2 x) z& b8 R) L; Z3 o+ c 第一節 人造毛皮基本組織 57
# a, n* b% ]: ?5 f( g1 P  一、毛條喂入法長毛絨組織 57
   (一)平針組織 57
8 |5 d. G4 E8 F+ R8 [. o% j   (二)花式組織 58
& u. X. m4 I( e4 o: w   (三)復合組織與襯墊組織 59
: K9 `# d2 `- t" f. L8 ~3 `   (四)花式空針組織 60
% I: ~& A# S- E. x   (五)變化平針組織 61
  二、毛紗割圈法長毛絨組織 63
# W" j9 a: v" j: {8 r9 W   (一)“V”形組織 63
" `( o' k# ~! a; [   (二)“W”形組織 64
  三、經編法長毛絨組織 64
( T' V) y4 H& H2 T6 p' _4 }   (一)平紋組織 65
' C0 k9 Y5 u" t3 O/ v4 H  s' P   (二)花式組織 65
  四、縫編絨組織 68
   (一)地布縫合組織 68
8 M. W3 o4 \  X   (二)紗線縫合組織 69
   (三)纖維網縫合組織 69
  M( L; J) Z; {$ R. i 第二節 天然裘皮特征與人工仿效技術要素 69
  一、裘皮毛絨結構與特征 70
/ E7 R% ?+ ~) m' n  二、裘皮毛被結構與組合分析 70
  三、獸毛截面形狀 72
/ J, o! Z  N+ ^; \% l" e   (一)貂皮 72
, A( M. E3 n# `3 g: g   (二)狐貍皮 74
第三節 針織人造毛皮毛絨結構及其特征 74
  一、毛絨結構及其纖維截面形狀 76
   (一)毛絨組合要素 76
   (二)毛絨纖維截面形狀 76
  二、毛絨組合纖維及其結構特征 77
   (一)仿貂皮產品 77
   (二)仿狐貍皮產品 77
1 H; [2 ^" E7 H. s9 B   (三)仿黃狼皮產品 77
   (四)仿羊羔皮產品 82
; d# R6 u5 i" k7 W6 _6 U第四章 毛條法長毛絨生產工藝與設備 83
: B7 \4 v# W0 Q3 K' Q 第一節 主要生產工序及其條件 83
第二節 染色 84
  一、散纖維染色 84
7 h$ \1 E, X0 B3 D4 j* S  y   (一)工藝流程 84
   (二)腈綸散纖維染色配方舉例 84
$ H/ J1 c$ Y3 ?; E3 N1 X+ d5 q# H. ~" f   (三)染色工藝 84
6 v- o! _  O; `* g. _# Y  二、染色機 86
   (一)NC464B型染色機 86
   (二)1800H型整包染色機 87
   (三)1530N-KF型高溫染色機 90
   (四)纖維包工序轉換及其吊運 94
   (五)染色后纖維脫水 97
第三節 毛條制備 101
9 u6 J1 W7 V7 l0 `  一、纖維鋪層 101
8 B* E9 H' o) `# h$ r$ @4 P  二、纖維混和與烘干 101
   (一)R435型散毛喂給機 101
   (二)R456F-4型圓網烘干機 103
   (三)B261型和毛機 104
$ W) v8 W. D7 \0 k$ P2 g0 F2 x   (四)纖維加油與存儲設備示例 106
  ^7 d! p9 I; q 第四節 梳毛 109
  一、毛紡工藝路線設備組合 109
1 N2 |# o* F+ h   (一)TATHAM-AF7D型配毛箱 111
& P+ d3 g/ m& S. S( T+ y   (二)TEMAFA型喂毛箱 113
; p0 {5 S$ E8 ]3 \) O  二、梳毛機 114
4 R7 v& H1 E4 u5 ]$ K   (一)人造毛皮用梳毛機 114
( R) p5 `" u+ W0 N" H9 C  {: K+ [   (二)TATHAM型(FN271型)梳毛機 116
   (三)B272A型梳毛機及其特點 117
   (四)毛條壓縮機 118
2 q7 H+ v9 I, c4 f( B3 N' L   (五)梳毛機梳理元件的規格與型號 121
第五節 棉紡清鋼聯工藝 125
- |: w& i& i- e/ [  一、棉紡路線清綱聯工藝流程與設備組合 125
; B, W/ o; y. {/ _. ?& X  二、清鋼聯自控程序及其電氣線路 125
  三、A006B型、A077型、A065型混棉、開棉機 125
- E1 P5 V: P8 i, H: P   (一)主要技術特征 125
   (二)傳動原理 129
  四、A177型喂棉機、A186型梳棉機、A272型并條機 130
. P, n' |% R; _" x3 \% w$ N' {% t7 u   (一)主要技術特征 131
) D' @' W; u( x5 \0 t   (二)傳動原理 133
1 V6 @% N& S, x3 E   (三)A272型并條機總牽伸倍數與變換齒輪的關系 134
6 C1 U+ Z$ H' _! { 第六節 坯布織造 136
% |4 V- ?9 _# X# z  一、底紗準備 136
   (一)絡筒工藝參數 137
   (二)絡筒機 137
* Z0 y' `' E) J) k9 a  二、花型制備 138
   (一)概述 138
   (二)MK系列花型制備系統 140
5 K& ]3 z% C9 K! d9 Q# D1 v   (三)HP系列花型制備系統 143
  三、MK系列人造毛皮機 144
   (一)機器主要技術特征 144
% w- g4 j) |1 H- O* n   (二)底布成圈與纖維喂入 145
   (三)成圈機構 149
   (四)MK系列梳理機構 157
$ X. u7 X4 v/ ~: ^3 S   (五)MK系列毛皮機的傳動原理 169
   (六)積極輸紗機構 169
   (七)牽拉與卷取機構 169
   (八)MK系列人造毛皮機的附屬設備 169
/ C& c3 p7 m  W# C   (九)MK系列人造毛皮機的潤滑與加油 174
   (十)機器故障排除、坯布疵點產生原因及消除方法 175
  四、HP系列人造毛皮機 178
   (一)機器主要技術特征 178
   (二)織針與沉降片的配合與動作 179
( a. ^" W& Q) s& V3 c5 c& ~   (三)電子選針機構及其動作 187
   (四)成圈元件 188
% n* n, j# Y. M4 W) e, I: J2 y( `   (五)HP系列梳理機構 193
   (六)輸紗機構 198
   (七)牽拉卷取機構 199
   (八)附屬設備 200
   (九)HP系列人造毛皮機的潤滑與加油 201
3 D9 b- K* ~' O  j; ^8 W' N; z   (十)機器故障排除、坯布疵點產生原因及消除方法 201
; t+ r* |3 U6 o) E2 D  五、KPN-16型人造毛皮機 205
   (一)外形特征 205
9 C& P* n5 w' _  I' Z   (二)主要技術特征 205
  \7 Q$ L) ~9 J& N   (三)成圈機構 207
   (四)KPN型梳理機構 209
   (五)傳動原理 210
  六、Z261型人造毛皮機 212
  f9 \5 R" F# o8 q( Y   (一)主要技術特征 212
   (二)傳動原理 212
   (三)成圈機構 212
6 F8 |  ~/ w4 T) H0 f   (四)梳理機構 215
9 Z4 B8 M" g+ b* G  C   (五)牽拉卷取機構 217
) ~: a3 }/ \+ z9 M% F7 Z3 l! |  V6 I   (六)成圈元件 217
  R9 U2 i* P  J% M5 |, r  七、GE141型人造毛皮機 217
   (一)主要技術特征 219
   (二)傳動原理 220
   (三)成圈機構 220
   (四)梳理機構 227
' i9 T( u5 S3 M1 ~3 a. r   (五)牽拉卷取機構 228
9 ?$ \/ }* `' r% Z/ |   (六)輸紗機構 228
   (七)潤滑與加油 228
   (八)控制線路 230
第七節 成品整理 230
6 R9 \9 Z( W1 X5 z  一、整理加工過程中的纖維效應 230
  二、整理工藝流程 230
- m5 Y2 q1 [* ]+ W  三、赫格(HEINZ HERGERT)系列后整理設備及其性能 230
/ Z8 I2 D) r  h" O7 q; _& B* l   (一)機器配套與組合方案 230
* M# L+ w. @8 W6 J   (二)PRM/GF-1800型單刀剪毛機 232
   (三)燙光機 240
3 m9 ?0 s1 A3 J; f- j   (四)PRS/GF型燙剪聯合機 243
   (五)懸掛式導布架 246
   (六)CAF·C/74型自動量卷機 248
  四、康邁特(COMET)系列后整理設備及其性能 253
" @* s: z: ?' [   (一)機器配套與組合方案的推薦 254
( X3 a8 j2 B) L  I6 e& P0 s4 q   (二)AR/70C型花式剪毛機 254
/ G! \4 b% P1 L0 c) @& B   (三)TS/2001型單刀剪毛機 258
   (四)PRA/83型燙光機 261
   (五)128C型燙剪聯合機 263
% f& c: y2 T) p) F   (六)G/80型壓花機 264
  五、錫斯狄克(SISTIG)系列后整理機器及其性能 265
   (一)機器配套與組合方案推薦 265
   (二)ZRM2/2.0型刷毛機 267
1 E4 r' I; m# U6 F. o- i   (三)FMSH1/2.0型燙剪聯合機 268
0 r9 [. d7 I; n. t   (四)FPM200型單輥燙光機 271
! i2 S; U) }7 p1 Z# d   (五)MSH1/2.0型單刀剪毛機 271
7 [3 m' D" I6 ^- l( O8 s  六、涂膠與定形 276
   (一)布魯克納(BRUCKNER)系列(蒸汽)涂膠定形機 276
4 a$ g/ y7 O) ^( v5 p  a* h+ h8 j; j6 I  X   (二)馬歇爾-威理姆(Marshall-Williams)1800型涂膠定形機 283
# r1 c- U1 s' e& i: k  七、滾球機 287
   (一)氣流循環及其成球 289
   (二)主要技術特征 289
0 a/ ~& I8 q9 y, z" z  八、整理過程中產品疵點產生原因與消除方法 293
第五章 毛紗法長毛絨生產工藝與設備 294
第一節 毛紗法長毛絨產品的特點及其分類 294
0 ]$ N4 K5 w- C. ?  一、毛紗與底紗線圈的特征 294
& b* n9 z4 b" `8 @: i/ A) y  二、織物質量的設定 294
( a7 I* P# U8 `; o& V* P0 C7 Y" Q8 |  三、產品分類 295
第二節 絞紗染色 296
1 Y5 q5 }! C/ r4 l4 e3 f; M& V  一、染色設備及其性能 296
   (一)絞紗染色機 296
( d) Q, R+ o1 X0 z0 Z$ [) K1 e& Y7 D   (二)絞紗染色機的主要技術特征 297
  二、染色工藝 298
   (一)工藝參數 298
   (二)膨化(顯體)工藝 299
- O: `& a. h/ ^5 Y% ~% }  v& f   (三)常用助劑及其主要性能 299
, g  y# ?0 m# q# a: J   (四)脫水與烘干 300
" u+ m/ H; ^' J8 C$ H5 ?   (五)典型工藝舉例 300
   (六)絞紗染色疵點的產生原因及消除方法 301
; I' G3 s+ T& K' J& `. D; T 第三節 坯布織造 303
+ `# M% E, n# {+ ^7 E( B; L: {  一、織物組織形式 303
/ g1 J. I4 v; K3 X6 q  二、DKP型長毛絨針織機 303
3 D1 W' @# z' j( ?   (一)機器特征 303
   (二)成圈與割圈機構 306
7 U) |& o" _# R   (三)成圈元件(以DKP型為例) 308
   (四)坯布疵點產生原因及消除方法 312
第四節 成品整理 312
/ x2 A/ w) J& ?: s: v  一、整理加工過程中的纖維效應 312
' }3 |  q( X' P: M( J) K  二、工藝流程 312
/ ~# ^, b5 D4 `9 a& ~. y. r  三、毛紗法長毛絨整理設備的選型及其工藝要求 313
- H/ ^4 L! [( C9 c. j& E   (一)刷毛喂入方向及其主要工藝參數 314
2 T) R8 l6 q( }/ A9 f   (二)燙光溫度及其喂入方向 315
# E) G2 l8 i& E' v. e* a; G第六章 經編法長毛絨生產工藝與設備 317
9 P; p: t) t' t9 D  z. E 第一節 坯布織造 317
  一、花紋設計 317
   (一)雙針床經編織物的圖示方法 317
0 }4 N- a6 S3 p0 h4 z  ]. h   (二)雙針床經編織物的結構 318
1 i% G) M. ^, S   (三)工藝設計 319
   (四)花紋制作 329
) X& `2 ~2 g7 S2 d" E2 F  二、HDR6DPLM/60型雙針床拉舍爾經編機 331
   (一)概述 331
0 _7 K  l0 l/ U; d   (二)成圈機構 333
8 _2 W8 ^1 o: x/ E- j   (三)編花裝置 347
   (四)牽拉與卷取 352
   (五)潤滑部位 355
   (六)上機條件及主要工藝參數 357
   (七)產品疵點產生原因及消除方法 362
, r( V4 L% b+ }0 D8 j) Q  三、PSM型割絨機 364
   (一)割絨機簡介 364
8 r! `0 R7 F# p) ]5 u   (二)割絨機的主要技術特征 364
   (三)割絨機的操作標準 365
第二節 成品整理 368
  一、生產設備組合形式 368
( X9 x' `6 M# t7 W/ U   二、生產工藝流程 368
1 N; a7 E& R1 w   (一)色織 368
1 M4 y$ |7 G1 ^   (二)印花 368
   (三)匹染 368
, y. ~" H( Z' H( y: t+ f  O  三、印花 369
8 Z* K/ ]( E* e2 s8 S3 c$ Z8 B   (一)印花設備 369
  [9 ]+ }  j  ]# v( X1 e   (二)上機條件及主要工藝參數 370
" f! _7 F: A% ~  四、匹染 373
3 y0 P. S" O! l6 M* K8 G   (一)設備 373
! c$ d' Q9 d( b* f0 ~7 O   (二)上機條件及主要工藝參數 374
9 d" l9 K5 G7 y4 u  ]  五、刷花 375
  六、熱定形 375
  n' O' W5 ~0 `; X   (一)滾筒定形機 375
   (二)上機條件及主要工藝參數 376
; H) U% @$ r7 ]6 Y第七章 縫編絨生產及其設備 377
第一節 生產與設備概況 377
3 V0 v8 B* l% s: b1 {" ^) | 第二節 縫編絨生產及其設備組合 377
) f6 i' \, B9 V8 B) l4 l) _6 h) K* f  一、加工方法 377
/ a. D0 z7 x$ S( D4 E0 w; _  二、生產設備組合 378
  三、縫編絨織物的主要技術參數 378
9 W9 H0 s  o, ]  ^. M  四、成網工藝 378
7 K0 `( d/ e: T, `   (一)纖維的選擇 380
   (二)纖網定量 380
8 i9 P2 I, u0 b) w$ s   (三)梳理機與縫編機的工作寬度 380
) L4 k( K# J7 K   (四)梳理機 380
- F9 P1 T( b+ D2 p; p 第三節 縫編絨生產 381
  一、縫編機的主要技術特征 381
  二、縫編絨的編織 381
  三、生產工藝參數 382
' ?3 Q! G' {4 [8 N9 \0 r$ _5 p 第四節 成品整理 384
  一、工藝流程 384
6 L6 m" ?! d$ _; |  二、抓剪機 384
. W# w' W6 D7 x$ j  三、主要工藝參數 385
1 h' u6 L% p* }8 A( a( \/ R: ?( C第八章 主要經濟技術指標參考 387
第一節 工藝設計 387
  一、織物規格及原料成分 387
  二、織物含毛量及含紗量計算 387
0 v2 b. _) k+ W3 }8 p! { 第二節 生產條件及其環境保護 392
  一、生產條件 392
% A! @# x' E, l, r( u) K! h  二、環境保護 394
第三節 勞動定額 395
6 g- U9 |" u5 a, F8 g! }  一、生產工人勞動定額 395
* @! d: U6 u. @9 H4 c! q  二、輔助生產工人勞動定額 396
- h/ W6 o, e1 E7 J* s
9 A7 J  D) z* }- A: v& {' O